The first thing in garden making is the selection of

a spot. Without a choice, it means simply doing the best one can with
conditions. With space limited it resolves itself into no garden, or a
box garden. Surely a box garden is better than nothing at all.

But
we will now suppose that it is possible to really choose just the right
site for the garden. What shall be chosen? The greatest determining
factor is the sun. No one would have a north corner, unless it were
absolutely forced upon him; because, while north corners do for ferns,
certain wild flowers, and begonias, they are of little use as spots for
a general garden.

If possible, choose the ideal spot a southern
exposure. Here the sun lies warm all day long. When the garden is thus
located the rows of vegetables and flowers should run north and south.
Thus placed, the plants receive the sun's rays all the morning on the
eastern side, and all the afternoon on the western side. One ought not
to have any lopsided plants with such an arrangement.

Suppose the
garden faces southeast. In this case the western sun is out of the
problem. In order to get the best distribution of sunlight run the rows
northwest and southeast.

The idea is to get the most sunlight as
evenly distributed as possible for the longest period of time. From the
lopsided growth of window plants it is easy enough to see the effect on
plants of poorly distributed light. So if you use a little diagram
remembering that you wish the sun to shine part of the day on one side
of the plants and part on the other, you can juggle out any situation.
The southern exposure gives the ideal case because the sun gives half
time nearly to each side. A northern exposure may mean an almost entire
cut-off from sunlight; while northeastern and southwestern places
always get uneven distribution of sun's rays, no matter how carefully
this is planned.

The garden, if possible, should be planned out
on paper. The plan is a great help when the real planting time comes.
It saves time and unnecessary buying of seed.

New garden spots
are likely to be found in two conditions: they are covered either with
turf or with rubbish. In large garden areas the ground is ploughed and
the sod turned under; but in small gardens remove the sod. How to take
off the sod in the best manner is the next question. Stake and line off
the garden spot. The line gives an accurate and straight course to
follow. Cut the edges with the spade all along the line. If the area is
a small one, say four feet by eighteen or twenty, this is an easy
matter. Such a narrow strip may be marked off like a checkerboard, the
sod cut through with the spade, and easily removed. This could be done
in two long strips cut lengthwise of the strip. When the turf is cut
through, roll it right up like a roll of carpet.

But suppose the
garden plot is large. Then divide this up into strips a foot wide and
take off the sod as before. What shall be done with the sod? Do not
throw it away for it is full of richness, although not quite in
available form. So pack the sod grass side down one square on another.
Leave it to rot and to weather. When rotted it makes a fine fertilizer.
Such a pile of rotting vegetable matter is called a compost pile. All
through the summer add any old green vegetable matter to this. In the
fall put the autumn leaves on. A fine lot of goodness is being fixed
for another season.

Even when the garden is large enough to
plough, I would pick out the largest pieces of sod rather than have
them turned under. Go over the ploughed space, pick out the pieces of
sod, shake them well and pack them up in a compost heap.

Mere
spading of the ground is not sufficient. The soil is still left in
lumps. Always as one spades one should break up the big lumps. But even
so the ground is in no shape for planting. Ground must be very fine
indeed to plant in, because seeds can get very close indeed to fine
particles of soil. But the large lumps leave large spaces which no tiny
root hair can penetrate. A seed is left stranded in a perfect waste
when planted in chunks of soil. A baby surrounded with great pieces of
beefsteak would starve. A seed among large lumps of soil is in a
similar situation. The spade never can do this work of pulverizing
soil. But the rake can. That's the value of the rake. It is a great
lump breaker, but will not do for large lumps. If the soil still has
large lumps in it take the hoe.

Many people handle the hoe
awkwardly. The chief work of this implement is to rid the soil of weeds
and stir up the top surface. It is used in summer to form that mulch of
dust so valuable in retaining moisture in the soil. I often see people
as if they were going to chop into atoms everything around. Hoeing
should never be such vigorous exercise as that. Spading is vigorous,
hard work, but not hoeing and raking.

After lumps are broken use the rake to make the bed fine and smooth. Now the great piece of work is done.